COSMETIC INCI: WHAT IT IS, HOW TO READ IT, AND WHY IT MATTERS

Have you ever tried reading the INCI of a cosmetic product and found yourself facing a long list of names in Latin, English, or other unfamiliar terms? This is a very common situation: the INCI is always on the label, but it can be difficult to interpret if you’re not a professional.

Yet, the INCI is an essential tool for understanding what a cosmetic product really contains, especially for those who want to make informed choices or have specific needs, such as sensitive skin or certain intolerances. Knowing how to read it helps you navigate formulations more confidently, avoiding misunderstandings or unnecessary concerns.

In this article, we clearly explain what the INCI is, how it is structured, and what information it can provide.

What is the INCI? 

INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients and is the international system used to list the ingredients of a cosmetic product. Each substance is identified with a precise, standardized name, regardless of the language of the country where the product is sold.

The INCI is the official system that allows consumers to know the ingredients in a cosmetic product clearly and consistently. Although it may sometimes seem complex, it was created with a practical purpose: to ensure transparency and safety.

Since 1999, European regulations have required that all cosmetic products sold in the EU carry the INCI on the label. This requirement primarily aims to protect consumers, allowing them to recognize the presence of certain substances before use.

Another key aspect of the INCI is its international relevance. The same nomenclature is used across the European Union and, with some minor differences, in countries such as the United States, Canada, Brazil, and South Africa.

What is the INCI really for

The INCI is not intended to label a product as “good” or “bad” but to provide transparency. Its purpose is to inform consumers about the ingredients present in a product, giving them the ability to make more conscious choices.

Specifically, the INCI allows you to:

- Identify the ingredients contained in a cosmetic product;

- Help people with allergies avoid problematic substances;

- Verify whether a declared ingredient is actually present in the formula.

It is important to remember that all legally marketed cosmetic products in Europe are subject to one of the strictest regulatory frameworks in the world. This means that a compliant product has already been evaluated for safety, regardless of the perception one might have from reading the INCI.

To interpret a label correctly, it is also essential to understand how ingredients are listed: in the next section, we will see why the order in the INCI matters.

How to read the INCI: basic rules

Did you know that the order of ingredients in the INCI is not random? The sequence in which they appear follows precise rules and can provide very useful information about a cosmetic’s composition.

Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration, from the most abundant to the least, at least down to 1%. This means that the first ingredient is the one present in the highest amount in the formula. Below 1%, the order may be less strict, and ingredients can be listed without a precise hierarchy. Not surprisingly, in most cosmetics, the first ingredient is Aqua, or water.

The way names are written also follows standardized conventions. Many ingredients are listed in English, while botanical ingredients are given in Latin, often followed by the part of the plant used (such as leaf, flower, or root). Fragrances are generally listed as Parfum, while colorants are identified by a CI (Colour Index) code followed by a number.

How to choose cosmetics more consciusly

Navigating the world of cosmetics means gathering information and evaluating products as a whole, rather than being guided solely by marketing or unclear claims.

It can be helpful, for example, to compare similar products by reading labels carefully, consult reliable and up-to-date sources, and, whenever possible, seek advice from qualified professionals such as pharmacists or beauty specialists. This approach is particularly important when selecting cosmetics for professional treatments, such as lash lift lotion & cleanser and brow lamination lotions & cleanser, which require attention both to formulation and correct usage.

Kalentin has recently introduced an innovation that puts ingredient care at the forefront: the Gluten-Free lash & row lamination kit, designed with strict safety and transparency criteria, for professionals who want to offer safe and up-to-date treatments.

Let's read the INCI of a cosmetic product together

To better understand how to interpret an INCI, let’s take the Kalentin Vegan Strengthening Serum for lashes and brows as an example.

Botox Hyaluronic Lash & Brow Serum

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INCI:Aqua (Water), Panthenol, Methylpropanediol, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Sodium PCA, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Proline, Alanine, Serine, Retinyl Palmitate, Trehalose, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed oil, Xanthan Gum, PPG-26-Buteth- 26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum (Fragrance), Disodium Edta, Sodium Phosphate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Decylene Glycol, CI 16035 (FD & C Red 40).

The first ingredient listed is Aqua (Water). As with most cosmetic products, water forms the base of the formula and allows the active ingredients to be properly delivered.

Next, we find Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5. This ingredient is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties: it helps improve the appearance of lashes and brows, making them look softer and healthier.

Continuing down the list, we find Sodium Hyaluronate, the cosmetic form of hyaluronic acid. Its main function is to retain moisture, helping keep the hair elastic and well hydrated—an especially important factor in daily treatments.

The INCI also includes vitamins and botanical extracts, such as Tocopheryl Acetate (vitamin E) and Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, which provide protective benefits and help preserve the quality of the formula over time.

The final part of the INCI contains ingredients present in smaller amounts, such as preservatives, stabilizers, and fragrance. Their role is to ensure the safety, stability, and shelf life of the product, in compliance with European cosmetic regulations.

FAQ: Kalentin answers

How can I tell if a product has a good INCI?

By checking the ingredient list, their concentration, and looking for safe, functional ingredients, without being alarmed by complex names.

What is the INCI in creams?

It is the standardized list of a cream’s ingredients, written according to international nomenclature to ensure transparency and safety.

What are INCI ingredients?

They are the substances contained in a cosmetic product, identified with internationally shared names to indicate their type, function, and concentration.

Kalentin's INCI guide: make informed choices with confidence

As we have seen, the INCI is essential for understanding the ingredients in cosmetics and knowing what you are applying to your skin. Learning to read it helps make more conscious choices, considering safety and effectiveness, while keeping in mind that products sold in Europe are already subject to strict controls.

Exploring ingredients more deeply is the first step to approaching cosmetics in an informed and responsible way. If you want to see concrete examples of formulations designed for safety and transparency, check out Kalentin lash & brow vegan products, created specifically for lash & brow professionals!